September 11, 2013

Barbie One Shoulder Cut Out Bodycon Dress

Barbie One Shoulder Cut Out Bodycon Dress

Since I have been working on Pullip doll crochet clothes lately, I thought I would satisfy some readers out there who have been requesting for more Barbie doll clothes. Because I prefer tight fitting clothes for the more proportional body of Barbie, I came up with this Cut Out Bodycon Dress.
This hub is a free crochet pattern for a Barbie One Shoulder Cut Out Bodycon Dress. This dress was made to fit a Barbie Basics doll (or Model Muse). For more information on different body types, please visit Crocheting Clothes for Your Barbie Doll.

Materials and Gauge

  • Size No. 1 Steel Hook
  • Size No. 10 Crochet Cotton Thread
  • 1 Small Snap

Crochet Stitches


  • ch = chain
  • sc = single crochet
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • sc2tog = sc the next 2 stitches together
  • inc = work 2 sc in the next st

Pattern


Part 1: Tube skirt
Starting from the bottom part of the skirt,
Round 1: Ch 38, sl st in the first ch to form a ring, ch 1, sc in each ch around, join with sl st in the first sc, turn. (38)
Round 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, join, turn. (38)
Round 3 - 16: Repeat Round 2.
Note: If you want the skirt to be longer, feel free to add more rounds at this point.
Round 17: Ch 1, sc in the first 11 sc, sc2tog, sc in the next 12 sc, sc2tog, sc in the last 11 sc, join, turn. (36)
Round 18: Ch 1, sc in the first 10 sc, sc2tog, sc in the next 12 sc, sc2tog, sc in the last 10 sc, join, turn. (34)
Round 19: Ch 1, sc in the first 10 sc, (sc2tog, sc in the next 10 sc) 2 times, join, turn. (32)
Round 20: Ch 1, sc in the first 9 sc, sc2tog, sc in the next 10 sc, sc2tog, sc in the last 9 sc, join, turn. (30)
Fasten off.
Here is the tube skirt after fastening off.

Part 2: Cut out design
Note: At this point, you need to work in rows, instead of rounds.
Row 1: Sk the first 8 sc of the Round 20 from Part 1, attach the thread with sc in the next sc, work 1 sc in the next 11 sc, sc2tog, sc in the next 14 sc, sc2tog, sk the remaining sc, turn. (28)
Row 2: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in the first 11 sc, sc2tog, sc in the next 11 sc, sc2tog, turn. (25)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in the first 8 sc, sc2tog, sc in the next sc, sc2tog, sc in the next 8 sc, sc2tog, turn. (21)
Row 4: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in the first 8 sc, inc, sc in the next 8 sc, sc2tog, turn. (20)
Row 5: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in the first 7 sc, inc 2 times, sc in the next 7 sc, sc2tog, turn. (20)
Row 6: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each sc across to the last 2 sc, sc2tog, turn. (18)
Row 7-10: Repeat Row 6. (10)
Row 11: Ch 1, inc, sc in each sc across to the last 2 sc, inc, turn. (12)
Row 12-14: Repeat Row 11. (18)
Do not fasten off.
Note: Unfortunately, I forgot to take a photo after this part since it took me longer than expected to finalize the design. But, at this point, the dress should be just below the bust area.
Side view of the cut out design.

Part 3: Bust part
Note: From Part 2, we need to connect the front and back together to cover Barbie's bust area so this part will be worked in Rounds.
Round 1: Ch 15, join with sl st in the first sc of the last Row of Part 2, turn.
Round 2: Ch 1, sc in each of the back loops of the chain and in each sc around, join with sl st in the first sc, turn. (33)
Round 3: Ch 1, sc in the first 8 sc, inc, sc in the next 17 sc, inc, sc in the last 6 sc, join, turn. (35)
Round 4: Ch 1, sc in the first 12 sc, sk 1 sc, 3 dc in the next 3 sc, sk 1 sc, sc2tog, sk 1 sc, 3 dc in the next 3 sc, sk 1 sc, sc in the last 11 sc, join, turn. (42)
Round 5: Ch 1, sc in the first 10 sc, sk 1 sc, dc in the next 8 dc, sk 1 dc, sc in the next sc, sk 1 dc, dc in the next 8 dc, sk 1 sc, sc in the last 11 sc, join, turn. (38)
Round 6: Ch 1, sc in the first 10 sc, sk 1 sc, sc in the next 8 dc, sk 1 sc, sc in the next 8 dc, sk 1 sc, sc in the last 9 sc, join, turn. (35)
Do not fasten off.

Closer view of the One Shoulder Cut Out Bodycon Dress.

Part 4: Shoulder strap
Note: Since we are now working on the straps, this part will be worked in rows.
Row 1: Sl st in the first 11 sc, ch 1, sc in the same sc, sc in the next 5 sc, sc2tog, sc in the next 6 sc, sk the remaining sc, turn. (13)
Row 2: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each sc across until the last 4 sc, sc2tog 2 times, turn. (10)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each sc across until the last 2 sc, sc2tog, turn. (8)
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in each sc across until the last 2 sc, sc2tog, turn. (7)
Row 5: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each sc across, turn. (6)
Row 6: Ch 1, inc, sc in each sc across until the last 2 sc, sc2tog, turn. (6)
Row 7: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each sc across until the last 2 sc, inc, turn. (6)
Row 8 - 9: Repeat Rows 6 - 7. (6)
Row 10: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each sc across until the last 2 sc, sc2tog, turn. (4)
Row 11: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn. (4)
Row 12 - 21: Repeat Row 11. (4)
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
Sew on snaps at the back with 1 on the shoulder strap and 1 on the strip created from Part 3. The back will look like this:
Back view of the dress

Now you can just pair it with Barbie Ballet Flats and Barbie Granny Square Shopping Tote Bag to complete the look.

August 6, 2013

Rachel Takes a Break

Before I publish my next pattern, I thought I'd take the time to introduce my Pullip Rche (Ruhe Loussier), Rachel. Here she is reading the paper while waiting for me to start her photo shoot.


 She is my new muse (Barbie is still waiting for me in the closet) and the majority of my new designs will be made for her. Here are some designs I have already published for her:

August 3, 2013

Pullip Fan-Stitched Wrap Skirt


To continue with the ballet look I wanted to achieve after watching Barbie in the Pink Shoes, the next article of clothing in line is the wrap skirt.
As a non-dancer, I cannot claim to be an expert as to what the right type of skirt a ballerina should wear while dancing, but I thought I will follow a basic rule of thumb: make sure it does not restrict movement. While A-line skirts should work fine, I thought I would try one that has a slit at the side and can easily be worn by tying around the waist.
This is a free crochet pattern for a Pullip Fan-Stitched Wrap Skirt worn over the Pullip Basic Leotard. The pattern was made for a Type 4 Pullip Body. For more information on the different body types of Pullip, please visit Facts About Pullip Dolls.
This pattern can also be adapted to fit Barbie, and can be worn over Barbie Strapless Bodysuit.
Materials:
  • Size No. 3 Steel Hook
  • Size No. 10 Crochet Cotton Thread (2 colors, A and B)


Gauge:


Pattern:
Note 1: Fan = work 5 dc in indicated stitch
Note 2: Half fan = work 3 dc in indicated stitch
Starting from the waist down:
Row 1: With A, ch 34, sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (33)
Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as dc all throughout), *fan in the next st, sk 1 st, sc in the next st, sk 1 st* across, fan in the last st, turn. Fasten off. (9 fans)
Row 3: With B, join with sl st in the 3rd dc of the first fan, ch 1, sc in the same st, *fan in the next sc, sc in the 3rd dc of the next fan* across, turn. Fasten off. (8 fans)
Row 4: With A, sk the 1st sc, join with sl st in the 3rd dc of the next (first) fan, ch 1, sc in the same st, *fan in the next sc, sc in the 3rd dc of the next fan* across, turn. Fasten off. (7 fans)
Row 5: With B, join with sl st in the first sc, ch 2, half fan in the same st, *sc in the 3rd dc of the next fan, fan in the next sc* across, sc in the 3rd dc of the last fan, half fan in the last sc, turn. Fasten off.
Row 6: With A, join with sl st in the first dc of half fan, ch 1, sc in the same st, *fan in the next sc, sc in the 3rd dc of the next fan* across, fan in the next sc, sc in the last dc of the half fan, turn. Fasten off.
Row 7: With B, repeat Row 4.
Row 8: With A, repeat Row 5.
Row 9: With B, repeat Row 6.
Row 10: With A, repeat Row 4, do not fasten off. Sc in each of the remaining st to end of row, sc across the ends of rows evenly, ch 50 (to make the first tie), fasten off.
To make the second tie:
Ch 50, sc to join in the opposite side and sc across the ends of rows evenly down to Row 9. Sc in the remaining skipped sts of Row 9, join with sl st in the first st of Row 10. Fasten off.
Weave in all ends.

July 20, 2013

Pullip Halter Colorblock Dress

Pullip Halter Colorblock Dress w/ Laptop Messenger Bag

I have somewhat neglected to update this blog for the past few months, but I have been adding new patterns in HubPages for Barbie clothes, as well as clothes for other dolls like Sylvanian Families and Pullip dolls. For an updated list of my patterns, just visit the HubPages widget on the right side of this blog.

I have also changed the name of this blog from Barbie Doll Crochet Clothes to Fashion Doll Crochet Clothes to include my growing obsession in making clothes for other dolls.

For the past few months, I have been focusing more on Pullip rather than Barbie, because I am looking for a change in pace when it comes to designing. Not that Barbie is never going to be featured again, but I just wanted to take a break from the typical Barbie doll.

This pattern was specifically designed for a Type 4 Pullip body. For more information on the different types of Pullip body, please visit: Facts about Pullip Dolls.

Materials:
Size 10 crochet cotton thread [in 3 colors - white (W), green (G), light green (LG)]
No. 3 steel hook or size needed to obtain gauge
1 small snap


Gauge:
Gauge is similar to Pullip Beach Hat
*inc = work 2 sc in the indicated stitch*
*dc around/across = work 1 dc in each st around/across*


Pattern:
Top:
Starting from the bottom:
Row 1: With W, ch 27, sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (26)
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in the first 11 sc, inc in the next sc, sc in the next 2 sc, inc in the next sc, sc in the last 11 sc, turn. (28)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in the first 11 sc, inc in the next sc, sc in the next 4 sc, inc in the next sc, sc in the last 11 sc, turn. (30)
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in the first 11 sc, inc in the next sc, sc in the next 6 sc, inc in the next sc, sc in the last 11 sc, turn. (32)
Row 5: Ch 1, sc in the first 11 sc, sk 1 sc, *2 dc in the next sc, 3 dc in the next sc, 2 dc in the next sc*, sc2tog, rep from *, sk 1 sc, sc in the last 11 sc, turn.
Row 6: Ch 1, sc in the first 10 sc, sk 1 sc, dc in the next 6 sts, sk 1 st, sc in the next sc, sk 1 st, dc in the next 6 sts, sk 1 sc, sc in the last 10 sc, turn.
Row 7: Ch 1, sc in the first 13 sts, *ch 26, sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across*, sc in the next 7 sts of Row 6, repeat from *, sc in the last 13 sts.
Fasten off.
Working on the skirt:
Row 1: With G, attach thread with sl st in bottom of top, ch 2 (does not count as dc all throughout), dc in the next 2 sts, *2 dc in the next st, dc in the next 2 sts*, repeat from * across, turn. (34)
Row 2: Ch 2, dc in the first 4 dc, (2 dc in the next dc, dc in the next 4 dc) across, turn. (40)
Row 3: Ch 2, dc across, join w/ sl st in the first dc, do not turn. (40)
Optional: At this point, I fastened off and changed color to achieve the colorblock look.
Row 4: With LG, attach thread with sl st in the first dc, ch 2, dc across, join. (45)
Row 5: Ch 2, (dc in the next 4 dc, 2 dc in the next dc) around, join. (54)
Row 6-7: Repeat Row 3. (54)
Optional: I changed color again after this row back to G.
Row 8-12: With G, repeat Row 3. (54)
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
Sew in a snap at the top of the bodice. Tie the halter top at the nape of the neck.
Back view of the dress

September 7, 2012

Barbie Simple Sheath Dress


I just published my newest pattern: Barbie Simple Sheath Dress. This is a good base for any color blocking designs you can come up with because it consists of all single crochets.

August 28, 2012

Round Bed Pillow

I wasn't able to find the time to design some new clothes for this month. I made this quick little pillow, though.



The pattern can be found here: Barbie Doll Crochet: Round Pillow.

Watch out for my upcoming clothes pattern next month. I will be showing two different versions of it, one with a simple color change and another with some color blocking.

July 23, 2012

Cropped Tube Top and Shell-Stitched Skirt


This is the newest design I have recently published in HubPages, Cropped Tube Top and Shell-Stitched Skirt. The hat is from a different designer that I thought would look nice with the new outfit. Due to my desire to have no-snap clothes, I have come up with the design for the cropped tube top with ribbings to require no snap.